- Rabbits are aka Lagomorphs, a part of the Lagomorpha family, including Hares and Pikas
- Longevity: Dwarf and smaller breeds live an average of 4 to 7 years, while Giant and larger breeds live an average of 5 to 10 years
- Some people think that "Rabbit" is the name for an adult and "Bunny" is the name for a baby. This is untrue. Rabbits and Bunnies are the same
- A hare is not a rabbit; it is a completely different species and a rabbit and a hare are unable to breed because of the difference in their gestation periods
- A Swedish Hare is a rabbit and not a hare
- A female rabbit is called a doe
- A male rabbit is called a buck
- A baby rabbit is called a kit
- A bunch of baby rabbits is called a litter
There are over 40 different breeds recognized by the American Rabbits Breeders Association, many more European breeds and countless cross-bred rabbits from which to choose.
Cross-bred rabbits are usually hardy and every bit as lovable as pure-bred.
The basic categories are:
-Dwarfs (2 to 3 pounds)
-Small (3-1/2 to 5 pounds)
-Medium (8 to 10 pounds)
-Large (10 to 14 pounds)
-Giant (16 to 20 pounds)
Keep in mind that females are larger than males. The weight chart shows minimum and maximum weights according to the American Rabbit Breeders Association Standard of Perfection. Actual weights for rabbits sold as pets may vary as much as 2 or 3 pounds.
List of Breeds: (*Breed Ideal Weight Range in pounds)
Cross-bred rabbits are usually hardy and every bit as lovable as pure-bred.
The basic categories are:
-Dwarfs (2 to 3 pounds)
-Small (3-1/2 to 5 pounds)
-Medium (8 to 10 pounds)
-Large (10 to 14 pounds)
-Giant (16 to 20 pounds)
Keep in mind that females are larger than males. The weight chart shows minimum and maximum weights according to the American Rabbit Breeders Association Standard of Perfection. Actual weights for rabbits sold as pets may vary as much as 2 or 3 pounds.
List of Breeds: (*Breed Ideal Weight Range in pounds)
- American 9 to 12
- Angora, English 5 to 7
- Angora, French 7-1/2 to 10-1/2
- Angora, Giant 8-1/2 up
- Angora, Satin 6 to 9-1/2
- Belgian Hare 6 to 9-1/2
- Beveren 8 to 11
- Britannia Petite 2-1/4 to 2-1/2
- Californian 8 to 10-1/2
- Champagne d'Argent 9 to 12
- Checkered Giant 11 up
- Chinchilla, American 9 to 12
- Chinchilla, Giant 12 to 15
- Chinchilla, Standard 5-1/2 to 7-1/2
- Cinnamon 8-1/2 to 11
- Creme d'Argent 8-1/2 to 11
- Dutch 3-1/2 to 5-1/2
- Dwarf Hotot 2-1/4 to 3-1/4
- English Spot 5 to 8
- Flemish Giant 13 up
- Florida White 4 to 6
- Harlequin 6-1/2 to 9-1/2
- Havana 4-1/2 to 6-1/2
- Himalayan 2-1/2 to 4-1/2
- Hotot 8 to 11
- Jersey Wooly 3 to 3-1/2
- Lilac 6 to 8
- Lop, English 9 up
- Lop, French 10 up
- Lop, American Fuzzy 3 to 4
- Lop, Holland 3 to 4
- Lop, Mini 4-1/2 to 6
- Netherland Dwarf 2 to 2-1/2
- New Zealand 9 to 12
- Palomino 8 to 11
- Polish 2-1/2 to 3-1/2
- Rex, Standard 7-1/2 to 10-1/2
- Rex, Mini 3 to 4-1/2
- Rhinelander 6-1/2 to 10
- Sable 7 to 10
- Satin 8-1/2 to 11
- Silver 4 to 7
- Silver Fox 9 to 12
- Silver Marten 6 to 9-1/2
- Tan 4 to 6
HANDLING:
A rabbit of any size is easily managed if handled properly from an early age. *Hold your rabbit securely and tight to your body so they feel safe and are less likely to fuss, wiggle around, kick, and/or SCRATCH! Most people begin shopping for "a bunny that won't get too big so my kids can handle it." Personal experience has shown that as a general rule the smaller breeds are more likely to be high strung than the larger breeds, similar to the comparison in dogs between the Chihuahua and Labrador Retrievers.
Litter Box Training:
Rabbits will, by choice, always (or almost always) use the same area for their toilet. I suggest letting a new rabbit have a few days in it's new cage to select an area. When they begin using one area more than the others, put a litter pan in that corner with a few droppings in the pan. You can also put a paper towel in the tray at the bottom of the cage before putting the litter pan in and then take the wet towel and put it in the litter pan to give them the idea that the litter pan is where to go. Like dogs, some rabbits get the hang of it quicker than others. Does seem to prefer to have 2 litter pans, one to use for a potty and one to either sleep in or just to keep clean (presumably for the litter of babies she thinks she will have). Pelleted litter seems to work better with rabbits than cat litter. With cat litter they will track the litter around the house in the fur on their foot pads. The pelleted litters are more absorbent and reduce ammonia odors. Please be sure to change the litter frequently. Hanging a hay feeder on the side of the cage above the litter pan will encourage use of the litter pan as well. Many rabbits will potty while eating and the hay feeder encourages them to the proper spot. I do not recommend putting hay IN the litter pan. They would then be eating soiled hay and could infect themselves with shed parasites.
Bedding:
Avoid using wood shavings that have pine and/or cedar. Pine and cedar wood shavings can lead to liver damage in rabbits. Kiln dried shavings, recycled paper, and absorbent specially made rabbit bedding are the most common type of bedding used.
A rabbit of any size is easily managed if handled properly from an early age. *Hold your rabbit securely and tight to your body so they feel safe and are less likely to fuss, wiggle around, kick, and/or SCRATCH! Most people begin shopping for "a bunny that won't get too big so my kids can handle it." Personal experience has shown that as a general rule the smaller breeds are more likely to be high strung than the larger breeds, similar to the comparison in dogs between the Chihuahua and Labrador Retrievers.
Litter Box Training:
Rabbits will, by choice, always (or almost always) use the same area for their toilet. I suggest letting a new rabbit have a few days in it's new cage to select an area. When they begin using one area more than the others, put a litter pan in that corner with a few droppings in the pan. You can also put a paper towel in the tray at the bottom of the cage before putting the litter pan in and then take the wet towel and put it in the litter pan to give them the idea that the litter pan is where to go. Like dogs, some rabbits get the hang of it quicker than others. Does seem to prefer to have 2 litter pans, one to use for a potty and one to either sleep in or just to keep clean (presumably for the litter of babies she thinks she will have). Pelleted litter seems to work better with rabbits than cat litter. With cat litter they will track the litter around the house in the fur on their foot pads. The pelleted litters are more absorbent and reduce ammonia odors. Please be sure to change the litter frequently. Hanging a hay feeder on the side of the cage above the litter pan will encourage use of the litter pan as well. Many rabbits will potty while eating and the hay feeder encourages them to the proper spot. I do not recommend putting hay IN the litter pan. They would then be eating soiled hay and could infect themselves with shed parasites.
Bedding:
Avoid using wood shavings that have pine and/or cedar. Pine and cedar wood shavings can lead to liver damage in rabbits. Kiln dried shavings, recycled paper, and absorbent specially made rabbit bedding are the most common type of bedding used.
Rabbits are meticulous animals and will spend a good part of their day grooming themselves.
DO RABBITS NEED TO BE BRUSHED?
Yes, particularly while they are shedding or moulting. Rabbits spend a good part of their day grooming themselves. In the process they ingest hair as they lick themselves which can lead to hair balls. More rabbits die from hairballs than most any other cause so keeping them free of loose hair is critical. Regular petting and handling will usually minimize the loose hair but most rabbits seem to enjoy the brushing as part of their natural instinct to groom one another. Brushing with a wire slicker will remove loose hair and any matting. Rabbits with a short coat like the Rex will only require a little water on your hands rubbed over the body to remove the loose hair.
HOW OFTEN DO THEY SHED?
Rabbits shed, or molt, their coat two to three times the first year and then typically once a year after that.
The first molt may be at three months of age when you'll see a little fur fly when you pet them.
The six month molt is the big one where folks are certain their rabbit has something wrong because their hair is falling out in great handfuls.
The new fur that comes in after the six month molt will be their adult color and texture. Long haired rabbits fur from this point on will be slightly coarser and easier to maintain with less matting. The Rex coat will be silkier and more velvety feeling.
They may shed again at nine months, but not always.
Then at a year they will shed again. After that, unless there is a dramatic change in weather, they will only molt once a year (around their birthday).
HOW DO YOU CUT THE RABBIT'S NAILS?
I always prefer to use cat clippers. White nails are the easiest because you can see the pink where the blood vessel begins. Dark nails are another story. When in doubt, be conservative. If you don't trim past the hair at the end of the nail you'll always be safe. Rabbits that run around on cement or have a piece of plywood in the cage to scratch on will keep their front claws worn down pretty well but the back ones will still need trimming. Nails left untrimmed may catch in the wire while the bunny is running around and may pull one out.
HOW MANY NAILS DO RABBITS HAVE?
Five on the front feet, counting the dew claws, and only four on the back feet.
HOW DO YOU BATHE RABBITS?
Generally rabbits do not like water. How ever they can be bathed, just make sure not to stress them out too much. Always use warm water (not cold and not too hot). The best way is to wet a wash cloth and run it over their bodies. Another easy way is to buy a dry powder called "Bunny Bath" but it is not very effective on really dirty fur.
MY RABBIT'S FEET ARE STAINED YELLOW. WILL A BATH MAKE THEM WHITE AGAIN?
Generally a little white vinegar on a wash cloth rubbed on the fur will remove the stain. For really stubborn stains try a little Hydrogen Peroxide followed by household corn starch powder, then brush. Don't cut the stains off the feet! Your bunny needs the padding on his feet to protect him from the cage wire! If the vinegar or peroxide don't work, soap and water may, but not very likely if the stain is caused by a rusty cage. There are also commercially prepared stain removers on the market. Just be sure they are safe for rabbits.
DO RABBITS NEED TO BE BRUSHED?
Yes, particularly while they are shedding or moulting. Rabbits spend a good part of their day grooming themselves. In the process they ingest hair as they lick themselves which can lead to hair balls. More rabbits die from hairballs than most any other cause so keeping them free of loose hair is critical. Regular petting and handling will usually minimize the loose hair but most rabbits seem to enjoy the brushing as part of their natural instinct to groom one another. Brushing with a wire slicker will remove loose hair and any matting. Rabbits with a short coat like the Rex will only require a little water on your hands rubbed over the body to remove the loose hair.
HOW OFTEN DO THEY SHED?
Rabbits shed, or molt, their coat two to three times the first year and then typically once a year after that.
The first molt may be at three months of age when you'll see a little fur fly when you pet them.
The six month molt is the big one where folks are certain their rabbit has something wrong because their hair is falling out in great handfuls.
The new fur that comes in after the six month molt will be their adult color and texture. Long haired rabbits fur from this point on will be slightly coarser and easier to maintain with less matting. The Rex coat will be silkier and more velvety feeling.
They may shed again at nine months, but not always.
Then at a year they will shed again. After that, unless there is a dramatic change in weather, they will only molt once a year (around their birthday).
HOW DO YOU CUT THE RABBIT'S NAILS?
I always prefer to use cat clippers. White nails are the easiest because you can see the pink where the blood vessel begins. Dark nails are another story. When in doubt, be conservative. If you don't trim past the hair at the end of the nail you'll always be safe. Rabbits that run around on cement or have a piece of plywood in the cage to scratch on will keep their front claws worn down pretty well but the back ones will still need trimming. Nails left untrimmed may catch in the wire while the bunny is running around and may pull one out.
HOW MANY NAILS DO RABBITS HAVE?
Five on the front feet, counting the dew claws, and only four on the back feet.
HOW DO YOU BATHE RABBITS?
Generally rabbits do not like water. How ever they can be bathed, just make sure not to stress them out too much. Always use warm water (not cold and not too hot). The best way is to wet a wash cloth and run it over their bodies. Another easy way is to buy a dry powder called "Bunny Bath" but it is not very effective on really dirty fur.
MY RABBIT'S FEET ARE STAINED YELLOW. WILL A BATH MAKE THEM WHITE AGAIN?
Generally a little white vinegar on a wash cloth rubbed on the fur will remove the stain. For really stubborn stains try a little Hydrogen Peroxide followed by household corn starch powder, then brush. Don't cut the stains off the feet! Your bunny needs the padding on his feet to protect him from the cage wire! If the vinegar or peroxide don't work, soap and water may, but not very likely if the stain is caused by a rusty cage. There are also commercially prepared stain removers on the market. Just be sure they are safe for rabbits.
Rabbits are prey animals, and they enjoy the security of other rabbits. They do best in pairs, however it is a rabbit's nature to be territorial, especially does, or several un-neutered bucks vying for the attention of a single or couple of does. If you are not buying rabbits together (who ideally are already living together), and are introducing a new rabbit to your existing pet in their home, this introduction should be done on neutral ground to lessen the instinct to protect one's nest. Chasing and thumping is normal when introducing rabbits, just be sure to monitor their behavior and make sure they do not fight or hurt each other. If they don't work out their differences within an hour or two, separate them and trying re-introducing at a later time. If the second time around they still don't get along then unfortunately this may mean they will not get along living in the same cage together. Your rabbit may be happy to just have company in a cage next door where they each have their own space but can still nuzzle through the wire. If each rabbit has a cage and territory of it's own, they may play well together in "neutral" ground but again, there are no guarantees. Some rabbits (like people) mate for life and actually become devastated at the loss of their mate making it difficult to find a replacement.
DO RABBITS GET ALONG WITH OTHER PETS?
Rabbits, depending on how spoiled they are, can be great companions for other pets. I find house cats seem to be the most similar in disposition. They will run and chase one another, chase toys together, groom one another and even share a litter box!
Dogs and rabbits can get along but you must remember that rabbits are natural prey to dogs and should never be left to play unsupervised. No matter how loving and gentle your dog has been with your rabbit, there may come a day when the bunny runs in play and the instinct to chase will take over. Dogs and rabbits require caution!
DO RABBITS GET ALONG WITH OTHER PETS?
Rabbits, depending on how spoiled they are, can be great companions for other pets. I find house cats seem to be the most similar in disposition. They will run and chase one another, chase toys together, groom one another and even share a litter box!
Dogs and rabbits can get along but you must remember that rabbits are natural prey to dogs and should never be left to play unsupervised. No matter how loving and gentle your dog has been with your rabbit, there may come a day when the bunny runs in play and the instinct to chase will take over. Dogs and rabbits require caution!
Young rabbits are prone to stomach upsets when presented with abrupt changes in feed. We feed a very high fiber feed and changing that feed too quickly can cause diarrhea and potentially death. Diarrhea lasting more than 24 hours can be fatal.
It is recommended to measure feed and serve fresh daily to monitor intake and any illness that could be overlooked when rabbit(s) are allowed to free feed. Basic ADULT RATION: 1 oz. Per pound of adult body weight. Babies may have double the adult ration up to age 3 months for smaller breeds, to six months for large breeds. During extreme cold weather outdoor rabbits ration may be increased by half.
If you must change feed we recommend mixing equal parts of original feed, Old Fashioned Quaker Oats and new feed. Gradually increase new feed and decrease original feed. Any sign of diarrhea indicates poor tolerance of new feed. Withdraw new feed and replace with Quaker Oats and grass hay only until stools return to normal. Then reintroduce mixed feed gradually.
It is recommended that your rabbit(s) have an unlimited supply of hay available to them. Timothy hay is preferred, Orchard or Meadow grass hay are also a very good choice. Oat Hay, or Three-Way Hay is fine too. Alfalfa hay is too rich for regular use. DO NOT FEED FRUITS OR GREENS TO BUNNIES UNDER SIX MONTHS OF AGE. NEVER FEED LETTUCE, BROCCOLI, OR CELERY!
*Adding tea to the drinking water reduces the ammonia in the urine and helps reduce bacteria overgrowth.
TOP FAVORITE TREATS include: rolled oats or Old Fashioned quaker oats (*Best food to harden stool, and help with any temporary digestive issues your bunny may have; see above). cilantro, parsley, carrots, apples, bread, tortillas, cranberries, raisins, papaya (great for wool block), pineapple, bananas, potato, and black oil sunflower seeds (excellent for maintaining a healthy, shiny coat)
It is recommended to measure feed and serve fresh daily to monitor intake and any illness that could be overlooked when rabbit(s) are allowed to free feed. Basic ADULT RATION: 1 oz. Per pound of adult body weight. Babies may have double the adult ration up to age 3 months for smaller breeds, to six months for large breeds. During extreme cold weather outdoor rabbits ration may be increased by half.
If you must change feed we recommend mixing equal parts of original feed, Old Fashioned Quaker Oats and new feed. Gradually increase new feed and decrease original feed. Any sign of diarrhea indicates poor tolerance of new feed. Withdraw new feed and replace with Quaker Oats and grass hay only until stools return to normal. Then reintroduce mixed feed gradually.
It is recommended that your rabbit(s) have an unlimited supply of hay available to them. Timothy hay is preferred, Orchard or Meadow grass hay are also a very good choice. Oat Hay, or Three-Way Hay is fine too. Alfalfa hay is too rich for regular use. DO NOT FEED FRUITS OR GREENS TO BUNNIES UNDER SIX MONTHS OF AGE. NEVER FEED LETTUCE, BROCCOLI, OR CELERY!
*Adding tea to the drinking water reduces the ammonia in the urine and helps reduce bacteria overgrowth.
TOP FAVORITE TREATS include: rolled oats or Old Fashioned quaker oats (*Best food to harden stool, and help with any temporary digestive issues your bunny may have; see above). cilantro, parsley, carrots, apples, bread, tortillas, cranberries, raisins, papaya (great for wool block), pineapple, bananas, potato, and black oil sunflower seeds (excellent for maintaining a healthy, shiny coat)
One of the great debates on rabbit raising is to house your rabbit(s) in a cage with wire floors or solid floors.
Sore hocks are caused by several things, none of which are from a GOOD, CLEAN wire floor. They can be genetic but more often is caused by flimsy or rusted floors or floors not kept clean and feces has been allowed to accumulate.
Solid plastic floors are most common in "indoor" rabbit cages. There are problems with these solid floor cages though. First is that the floor is slick and does not allow the rabbit a good footing as they have in a wire floored cage. And unless the rabbit uses a litter box in these cages then he is sitting and sleeping in his own waste. Wire floors allow the urine and feces to fall below the floor leaving the rabbit in a clean space. The wire floors also offer good traction for the rabbits to run and play.
The biggest issue is cleanliness. Especially in a solid floor cage where urine and feces collect. Ammonia produced by rabbit urine is unpleasant for humans to smell but is dangerous to your rabbit's health. Persistent high levels of ammonia can damage the delicate nasal passages of rabbits. The nares in the nose that filter out pathogens become damaged and often respiratory disease follows. It's up to us to keep their space clean and comfortable.
Sore hocks are caused by several things, none of which are from a GOOD, CLEAN wire floor. They can be genetic but more often is caused by flimsy or rusted floors or floors not kept clean and feces has been allowed to accumulate.
Solid plastic floors are most common in "indoor" rabbit cages. There are problems with these solid floor cages though. First is that the floor is slick and does not allow the rabbit a good footing as they have in a wire floored cage. And unless the rabbit uses a litter box in these cages then he is sitting and sleeping in his own waste. Wire floors allow the urine and feces to fall below the floor leaving the rabbit in a clean space. The wire floors also offer good traction for the rabbits to run and play.
The biggest issue is cleanliness. Especially in a solid floor cage where urine and feces collect. Ammonia produced by rabbit urine is unpleasant for humans to smell but is dangerous to your rabbit's health. Persistent high levels of ammonia can damage the delicate nasal passages of rabbits. The nares in the nose that filter out pathogens become damaged and often respiratory disease follows. It's up to us to keep their space clean and comfortable.
This is a "hot button" topic in many circles and this is simply my take on it.
Some unneutered males may spray if exposed to other animals or sometimes the smell of perfume or a woman's menstrual cycle will prompt them to want to mark you as their own! There are a great many more who never spray. I find about one in a hundred that spray and they usually have plenty of stimulation and exposure to invoke the behavior. The alternative is to have them neutered.
CAN SPAYING A FEMALE IMPROVE HER DISPOSITION?
I don't believe that spaying or neutering changes either gender's disposition much. It may break some unbearable habits; spraying, aggression (among un-neutered males). My position on spaying females is probably not shared by most veterinarians but since you asked... I am aware that a lot of articles suggests that a doe that isn't bred incurs a much higher risk of uterine cancer at the age of 2 or 3 if she isn't spayed. The numbers quoted by many rescue organizations are only relative to the number of animals they come in contact with and not relative to rabbit populations as a whole. The likely hood of your doe developing a tumor (let alone a cancerous one) is very, very slim. The alternative is to have them spayed.
That fact not withstanding, I don't encourage pet owners to rush into spaying and neutering until they are certain that either the disposition is intolerable or they plan to house it with another rabbit. Besides, spaying and neutering does NOT guarantee an improvement in attitude. The spay procedure is more complicated and requires the rabbit to be under anesthesia for quite a long time and the procedure should not be trusted to just any vet. Be sure the vet has a lot of experience with spaying rabbits. These surgeries are extensive for both genders and is a great STRESS to your already delicate bunny to go through. Please keep this in mind and really think through your decision to spay/neuter. If you don't absolutely have to, maybe you shouldn't!
Some unneutered males may spray if exposed to other animals or sometimes the smell of perfume or a woman's menstrual cycle will prompt them to want to mark you as their own! There are a great many more who never spray. I find about one in a hundred that spray and they usually have plenty of stimulation and exposure to invoke the behavior. The alternative is to have them neutered.
CAN SPAYING A FEMALE IMPROVE HER DISPOSITION?
I don't believe that spaying or neutering changes either gender's disposition much. It may break some unbearable habits; spraying, aggression (among un-neutered males). My position on spaying females is probably not shared by most veterinarians but since you asked... I am aware that a lot of articles suggests that a doe that isn't bred incurs a much higher risk of uterine cancer at the age of 2 or 3 if she isn't spayed. The numbers quoted by many rescue organizations are only relative to the number of animals they come in contact with and not relative to rabbit populations as a whole. The likely hood of your doe developing a tumor (let alone a cancerous one) is very, very slim. The alternative is to have them spayed.
That fact not withstanding, I don't encourage pet owners to rush into spaying and neutering until they are certain that either the disposition is intolerable or they plan to house it with another rabbit. Besides, spaying and neutering does NOT guarantee an improvement in attitude. The spay procedure is more complicated and requires the rabbit to be under anesthesia for quite a long time and the procedure should not be trusted to just any vet. Be sure the vet has a lot of experience with spaying rabbits. These surgeries are extensive for both genders and is a great STRESS to your already delicate bunny to go through. Please keep this in mind and really think through your decision to spay/neuter. If you don't absolutely have to, maybe you shouldn't!
Very few bunnies ever die of old age! Leading causes of rabbit deaths are:
GI Stasis:
GI Stasis refers to a slowdown or shutdown of the normal movement of the intestines. It has become a fairly common condition in rabbits. This is one of the conditions that wasn't common or at the very least didn't have a name until recent years. Many breeders fed pellets only and the only hay our rabbits got was in a nest box when they had babies. Those that raised wool breeds were aware of the dangers of wool block and fed high fiber diets to prevent wool block, but thought that it was just an issue of long haired rabbits. With the increase in popuarity of house rabbits and rabbits as pets in general there has been an increased awareness of the importance of diet and exercise. These days rabbit owners generally accept the importance of coarse fiber in the form of hay to keep the gut moving properly in all breeds of rabbits. Why then, do we see so many cases of GI stasis now? Are we more observant and knowledgeable or is there something we are doing that is causing the high incidence? The diagnostic challenge, in part, is that it is hard to know whether it is simply an issue of " is the gut shutting down or being shut down by an obstruction"? There is a fine line between GI Stasis and wool/fur block, and unfortunately it can be difficult to determine the causes of GI stasis in your rabbit before it is too late.
Sneezing:
Why a rabbit sneezes can be quite varied. Rabbits, like humans can be allergic or can have respiratory infections. Knowing the difference is the important issue. House dust, perfume, fabric softener, room fresheners, cigarette smoke, pot pouri and many more things found in every house can cause rabbits to become allergic. Products used for bedding can also be the culprit. Outdoors, dust, smoke, pollen, hay and more may be the cause. If there is no discharge from the nose or if the discharge is clear, it is likely the cause is allergic. On the other hand, if the discharge from the nose is thick, white, yellow or green, it is caused by an infection. Respiratory infections are serious and require medical attention and appropriate antibiotic treatment. The type of antibitoc will vary based on the diagnosis. NEVER ALLOW a vet to give your rabbit AMOXICILLIN! It is deadly to rabbits. Find a rabbit saavy vet as soon as possible. (And no, not all vets are rabbit saavy!) The only way to tell for sure the type of infection is by performing a culture and sensitivity test. The test results do not come back quickly so most vets will begin a treatment regimin (cased on their best guess of cause) while they wait for the results. A vet that declares the cause to be Pasturella without a culture is irresponsible. It cannot be identified without a culture. Finding the cause of such infections is important to the rabbit's recovery. High levels of ammonia are the most common cause of respiratory infections. The ammonia literally burns the nasal hairs that filter out bacteria. Regular removal of urine and feces is critical to your rabbit's health. Bacterial infections can be spread from one rabbit to another through direct contact or from aerial contamination so quarantine of the sick animal is imperative.
Vaccinations:
There are no vaccinations for rabbits...only preventative medications. Medicating your rabbits is a personal preference. The most common medicines are used to prevent internal parasites, mites, and worms.
- HAIRBALLS - rabbits need hay as part of their weekly diet to help them pass the hair out of their system. Chewable papaya tablets or fresh papaya and fresh pineapple help as well. A rabbit that quits eating probably is developing a hairball. ALWAYS CONSIDER IT AN EMERGENCY WHEN YOUR RABBIT QUITS EATING! Delay can cost your bunny it's life!
- DIARRHEA - rabbits digestive systems are very sensitive. Abrupt changes in feed or greens fed to young rabbits can lead to diarrhea, dehydration and death. NEVER FEED LETTUCE! If rabbits show any signs of diarrhea, remove all green pellets and feed old fashioned Quaker Oatmeal or dry bread and hay only. Willow leaves and mint will also help stop the diarrhea.
- STRESS - Rabbits are prone to heart attacks. Being startled suddenly by a loud noise, something they are unfamiliar with and taken as a threat, or predators (dogs and cats included) can lead to a sudden stop of your rabbit's heart.
- ACCIDENTS - Broken backs are also not uncommon injuries, mainly caused from a drop, or improper handling. Dislocated spines are treatable but fractures are not. Rabbits left unattended with household pets can lead to tragedy as well. Even the best of trained dogs and other pets can get overly excited when "playing" with a rabbit, and rabbits being as fragile as they are can be easily killed during a rough playtime.
- PREDATORS - Outside rabbits are at a higher risk of being lost to predators. Hawks, feral cats, dogs, raccoons, coyotes, etc. are among the top killers.
- HEAT STROKE - Rabbits don't sweat or pant. They can only exchange heat through the blood vessels in their ears and can become overheated and die very easily. It is imperative that during the hottest of weather (over 80 degrees) that they have a sufficient amount of water to keep them cool. Igloos and hideaways for shade are a great asset, as well as frozen 2-liter water bottles in their cages to lie against.
GI Stasis:
GI Stasis refers to a slowdown or shutdown of the normal movement of the intestines. It has become a fairly common condition in rabbits. This is one of the conditions that wasn't common or at the very least didn't have a name until recent years. Many breeders fed pellets only and the only hay our rabbits got was in a nest box when they had babies. Those that raised wool breeds were aware of the dangers of wool block and fed high fiber diets to prevent wool block, but thought that it was just an issue of long haired rabbits. With the increase in popuarity of house rabbits and rabbits as pets in general there has been an increased awareness of the importance of diet and exercise. These days rabbit owners generally accept the importance of coarse fiber in the form of hay to keep the gut moving properly in all breeds of rabbits. Why then, do we see so many cases of GI stasis now? Are we more observant and knowledgeable or is there something we are doing that is causing the high incidence? The diagnostic challenge, in part, is that it is hard to know whether it is simply an issue of " is the gut shutting down or being shut down by an obstruction"? There is a fine line between GI Stasis and wool/fur block, and unfortunately it can be difficult to determine the causes of GI stasis in your rabbit before it is too late.
Sneezing:
Why a rabbit sneezes can be quite varied. Rabbits, like humans can be allergic or can have respiratory infections. Knowing the difference is the important issue. House dust, perfume, fabric softener, room fresheners, cigarette smoke, pot pouri and many more things found in every house can cause rabbits to become allergic. Products used for bedding can also be the culprit. Outdoors, dust, smoke, pollen, hay and more may be the cause. If there is no discharge from the nose or if the discharge is clear, it is likely the cause is allergic. On the other hand, if the discharge from the nose is thick, white, yellow or green, it is caused by an infection. Respiratory infections are serious and require medical attention and appropriate antibiotic treatment. The type of antibitoc will vary based on the diagnosis. NEVER ALLOW a vet to give your rabbit AMOXICILLIN! It is deadly to rabbits. Find a rabbit saavy vet as soon as possible. (And no, not all vets are rabbit saavy!) The only way to tell for sure the type of infection is by performing a culture and sensitivity test. The test results do not come back quickly so most vets will begin a treatment regimin (cased on their best guess of cause) while they wait for the results. A vet that declares the cause to be Pasturella without a culture is irresponsible. It cannot be identified without a culture. Finding the cause of such infections is important to the rabbit's recovery. High levels of ammonia are the most common cause of respiratory infections. The ammonia literally burns the nasal hairs that filter out bacteria. Regular removal of urine and feces is critical to your rabbit's health. Bacterial infections can be spread from one rabbit to another through direct contact or from aerial contamination so quarantine of the sick animal is imperative.
Vaccinations:
There are no vaccinations for rabbits...only preventative medications. Medicating your rabbits is a personal preference. The most common medicines are used to prevent internal parasites, mites, and worms.